Resources

Because when our customers purchase from us they don't have to worry if what they're buying is going to work, or what to do once they get it. Not only do we provide the best products on the market, but we also provide instructional videos, answers to frequently asked questions, and the telephone to our service department where they can call if they have any questions or need help with a problem. Some of our products can be found online, but the knowledge and customer service cannot! Scratch Doctors brings it all together in one place, and makes it available to everyone without spending thousands of dollars on some "kit".

Our products are good because they work better than anything on the market. They are a result of over 20 years of experience, and over 500,00 hours of glass scratch repairs. The products we sell are the same ones we use in the field, and are purchased with performance in mind...not profit. Our disc are 100% genuine Mirka and what the ultra-professionals use, Our solution is custom made to our specific purity, particulate size, PH level, and suspension. Our polishing felts are made for us from 100% premium felt, and our backing plates are balanced and rated to 10,000 rpm's. PLEASE NOTE: Our discs are 100% guaranteed Genuine Mirka...beware of imitations on the internet.

Watch the video, and read the information carefully. Those 2 items cover 80% of everything you need to know about remove scratches from glass...the other 20% consists of patience, practice, and common sense.

Yes...as long as the glass is made from 100% natural materials. However, the process will NOT work on composite glass, fire rated glass, plexiglass, or anything else that is not pure glass. PLEASE NOTE: We do not recommend working on glass that is curved, thinner then 1/4", or glass that has not been heat treated due to its delicate nature and it's propensity to shatter in large sections. Can it be done...YES, but please do not attempt to work on these types of glass unless you have experience, practice, and you know your limitations. Whenever working with glass, always use extreme caution, and make it a point to practice safety first. Always use gloves, eye protection, respiration equipment, a long sleeve shirt, and plenty of common sense.

ABSOLUTLY! Our cerium oxide and premium felt are amazing and will quickly remove mineral deposits from windows, water spots from shower enclosures, and oxidation buildup from car windows. PLEASE NOTE: It is best to address mineral deposits as soon as they start to develop. At an early stage, it is extremely easy with a quick polish. If the mineral deposits are not addressed in a timely fashion, it will eventually begin to etch the glass, and permanently damage the surface. This type of damage can be corrected, but the area will need to be sanded down to remove the damage, and then polished out.

NO...on the contrary, it actually fixes it! This is because glass has surface tension, like water...and a scratch is a fracture on that surface tension. In the same way a glass cutter makes a shallow score on the surface of the glass, and the glass breaks along the score. A scratch is a score on the surface of the glass, and can have the same effect. By removing the scratch, we actually restore the surface tension, and returns the glass to its original integrity.

Ultimately, it's going to depend on the experience of the person doing the repair, and how close the damage is to the frame. The deeper the scratch, the more room that is required to feather it out. A seasoned technician can typically remove almost any deep scratch that is as close as up to 1" from the frame. With that being said, we do not recommend chasing a deep scratch that is closer then 2"-3" from any edge without the proper level of experience, knowledge, and skill set. PLEASE NOTE: If the glass is not in a frame or can be taken out of the frame then there are no limitations because the damage can be feathered off the edge. TIP: Two signs that a scratch is too deep, is when minuet flakes of glass are missing at the seam of the scratch, and when light refracts through the scratch instead of around it.

Scratch Doctors guarantees that we can do any glass scratch repair up to 1" from any edge, or we'll do the panel for free. But for the most part we do not recommended trying to removing scratches on glass that are within 2" from any edge, or 3" if it's deep. We also recommend practicing on a spare piece of glass before attempting to do it. But to answer the question...A well-seasoned technician can remove light scratches as close as 1/4" away from an edge...depending on how light they are. PLEASE NOTE: Removing scratches from glass that are closer then 2" from an edge, requires experience, knowledge, and advanced techniques. Please don't do it unless you're sure you can! TIP: When working close to an edge, add an extra layer of tape on the frame. This way if you bump it or nick it, you'll be less likely to damage it.

Yes, it can...which is why safety is always of the upmost importance. But with a little knowledge and common sense...it can be avoided. The most common reason for glass to break is thermal shock. This happens when the glass over heats while grinding and/or polishing...especially the polishing. To avoid this, be sure to monitor the temperature frequently, and give the glass plenty of time to cool. Whatever you do...DO NOT cool off the glass by pouring water on it, you will break it. Another reason glass can break is because it is too thin and/or too much pressure was applied. Working on delicate glass could be very dangerous, especially if the glass has not been treated. This is why we do not recommend working on anything that has not been treated, or is thinner then 1/4".

Distortion is an irregular depression on the surface of the glass that makes the backdrop or reflection shift its shape. Distorting a panel is almost as bad as breaking it, because once it happens, it's almost impossible to completely remove...even by an experienced technician. The trick is to avoid causing it. The most common reason distortion can occur is usually due to bad grinding techniques, but it can also happen from contamination, which is why every precaution should be taken to avoid it. PLEASE NOTE: Every piece of glass has some natural distortion that happens during the manufacturing process, and even more so it the glass has had some type of additional treatment. Be careful when working over these areas! Causing distortion in these areas can look worse than normal.

Water marks is a specific type of damage that occurs when the grinding disc is pressed against the glass with too much pressure. This type of damage resembles a liquid-like spiral swirl on the glass, and only becomes visible after the glass has been polished. These are light gouges in the glass, and can be challenging to remove because of the depth and you lose track of them long before they come out. If you do get water marks, you will have to start the process over and treat this like a deep scratch. Use a brand new disc, be patient, and don't forget to mark up the area so you don't lose track of it. TIP: To avoid water marks, do not apply excessive pressure when doing any glass scratch repair. Just don't do it!

Heat...The worst thing that can happen when removing scratches from glass, is breaking the panel...and HEAT will do it every time! Always remember to stay on top of the temperature, give the glass plenty of time to cool off, and whatever you do...NEVER pour water on the glass to cool it off, you will break it. Bad Technique...is the most common reason glass can become distorted, which is the second worst thing that can happen during a glass scratch repair. Some examples of bad techniques are following the same pattern, moving the grinder too slow, and pressing the disc against the glass unevenly (causing one of the edges to dig in the glass). Good techniques is a combination of knowledge, practice, and a lot of patience. Contamination...is the second and most common reason distortion can occur. Contamination is any foreign substance on the surface of the glass (visible and invisible) that prevents the glass from grinding in a uniform pattern, and creating distortion. To avoid this, make it a habit to always decontaminate the glass.

Heat is responsible for almost all broken panels. This is called thermal shock and it happens when there's a drastic temperature change within the same piece of glass. When performing a glass scratch repair several things can generate heat such as...grinding, polishing, working in direct sunlight, and working on any piece of glass that does not dissipate heat well (e.g., double pane glass, mirrors with a backing, and glass that does not allow the heat to easily escape). To avoid thermal shock, make it a habit to regularly monitor and control your temperature. PLEASE NOTE: Never touch the glass with bare hands to check for temperature. The oil from your fingertips will contaminate the glass and cause distortion. Whenever possible use a temperature sensor. If one is not available, you can lightly use the back of your arm or hand to check the temperature. TIP: To be safe, always try to keep the temperature under 150 degrees. If you find yourself getting frustrated due to the heat, take a break and disconnect. Don't just sit there waiting for the glass to cool off...go get something to eat or drink. The point is to detach, and come back fresh and level headed. You'll thank me later!

Contamination is any substance on the glass that causes distortion when you grind over it. It could be obvious and easily visible such as...dirt, caulk, paint droplets, etc.. Or it could be unnoticeable and invisible to the naked eye, such as...sweat, chemicals, or oily residuals. This is the worst kind because you don't even know it's there. In order to avoid this, after cleaning the glass and removing anything you can physically see, take your polishing wheel with cerium oxide, and polish the entire area. This will remove any oils or substances that you cannot see. PLEASE NOTE: After you decontaminate the glass, DO NOT touch it barehanded for any reason. If you do touch the glass or something lands on it. Briefly run your polishing felt with some cerium oxide over the area until it polishes clean, then you can continue removing the scratches on glass. Also, if you mark up your panel, make sure to do it on the backside. Grinding over the marker will distort the glass in those same exact areas.

Good techniques are a combination skill sets and how they're applied when removing scratches from glass. A well-trained technician begins by properly protecting the area they will be working in...all frames and edges are taped, visqueen is put up, and tarps are laid out. After that the panel is marked up and all safety precautions are put in place, the glass scratch repair is ready to begin. Here are 10 tips to help keep your repair on track and out of trouble... ​ 1. Start off by cleaning the panel, and then decontaminate it. 2. Never turn the grinder on or off when the disc is pressed against the glass. 3. Start grinding over the damage and keep the machine moving at a rate of about 1" per second. As the repair progresses, open up the area of repair in small increments at a rate of approximately 1" every 2-3 minutes. 4. During the repair, keep the machine flat against the glass. DO NOT tip it or tilt it for any reason, and NEVER use the edge of the disc to grind anything out. 5. While grinding, use moderate pressure to hold the machine against the glass. A little extra pressure is OK, but DO NOT overdo it or try to remove all the damage on one shot. 6. Make sure when you're grinding to overlap your passes and apply smooth and even pressure. DO NOT go over the same pass/pattern over and over or you will distort the glass. 7. Make sure the transition edge between the repair and the existing surface of the glass is smooth and uniform. Pay attention to this area, because is what blends in the repair and makes it seamless. 8. Make sure to constantly monitors the heat, especially when polishing because it creates the most heat. 9. NEVER use your bare hand to check the temperature or wipe the glass, it will cause distortion. If you don't have a temperature sensor, you can use the back of your arm or the back of your hand to check for heat. 10. Throughout the process, and especially when you're finished...inspect the glass. Look at it from different angles, and with different backgrounds. Start by looking through it, and then pay attention to the reflection. If you see anything, you will have to go back and correct it accordingly. When everything looks good, your done and ready for cleanup. PLESE NOTE: Always remember...SAFETY FIRST! Pay attention to what you're doing, relax, and most importantly...know your limitations. Use common sense, and don't back yourself into a corner!

Marking up a panel is when you take a sharpie or dry erase marker (we prefer dry erase) and you outline the scratches you will be repairing on the back side of the glass. This is a very good and helpful habit, because it let you keep tabs of everything that needs work. Also, as you start grinding and the repair progresses, the scratch(s) starts to become harder to see and you lose track of them before they're totally gone. By marking up your panel, you are able to pinpoint the area where your damage was when inspecting your work. PLEASE NOTE: DO NOT mark the panels on the side that you will be grinding, always mark the glass on the back side. If you grind over these marks, you will distort the glass.

For the last 9 years we have been using the Makita 9227, which is now known as the 9237C. We have owned about 150 of these machines and they have served us well. A few years ago, we started using the Dewalt DWP 849X, and thus far we have owned about 20 of these machines. The Dewalt is a little lighter and last a little longer before having to get it serviced, but the Makita ultimately lasts longer. To be honest, they both do an excellent job, and it boils down to personal choice, but in the end most of our technicians prefer the Makita over the Dewalt.

Yes...but if you are going to use a drill, make sure it has enough torque to complete the process. Most chorded drills and high-end cordless drills will have sufficient power to remove water spots and light scratches, but deep scratches will be a little more challenging. When using a drill, always practice on a scrap piece of glass before attempting the repair. Whenever possible, we recommend using an angle grinder or polisher...not only do they have more torque and variable speed, but because of its shape and size...it allows you to have better control and leverage of the machine. PLEASE NOTE: If you are going to use a drill, you will need a 5/8" drill chuck adapter. Don't forget to purchase one in our store.

When removing scratches from glass, you will need the basic safety equipment...gloves, eye protection, respiratory protection, and a long sleeve shirt. You will also need an angle grinder/polisher (or drill), spray bottle, water, and rags. From there moving forward, an infrared thermometer is highly recommended, but the job can be completed without one. Depending the area and you will be working in, you also might need some tape, visqueen, and a drop cloth.

Besides scratches on glass, our kits are capable of removing every type of surface damage from glass. Everything from water spots to mineral deposits, chemical stains to permeant stains, and acid graffiti to welding/grinder splatter. Our kits are professional grade and limited only by the experience and knowledge of the user.